![]() Hopefully the head is ok and the block just needs a bot of clean up. I am planning to pull the head to get an idea of the damage. I didnt film the one that let go but this was the run before it. ![]() This was a 4g64 block with a 4g64 head gasket and timing belt. ![]() Marco fully assembled and timed the motor personally. If you do figure it out post up so we can see what the cause was. Might have to tear the whole engine apart to find out what may have caused it. Usually if spark is blowing out you feel it on the dyno and if it doesnt ignite, the cylinder stays wet with fuel and wont melt a plug that easily. Iv seen plugs look like that after removing from a failed engine that had a failed head gasket, coolant was getting into the cylinder of the damaged plugs, not to say the plug didnt melt first and then the gasket went. Not saying that was the issue but there is almost no way of telling for sure with a major failure. Sometimes it only takes one loose built to be the factor. It could have been a fully built engine with really great parts but then it ultimately relies on how well the parts were put together. I know this isnt the case for everyone but this is what we have found worked the best.Īs for your exact situation, sometimes theres no way of telling. With all that said i cant tell how many evos we have had in through our shop that were fixed by removing the colder plugs that were in them and switching them back to oem plugs. My personal 9 has done 790wheel mustang and never had any issues with oem plugs. Anything past 600wheel you should be running e85 or another race fuel type which the stock heat range 7 works great for also. Stock heat range 7 is good to 600wheel with good 93 gas and a good tune. 022 for both and usually the 9 plugs are already set there. Oem 8 ngk plug number is BPR7EIX and 9 number is ILFR7H. Built many evos and first off we would always recommend oem plugs and heat ranges. Was it running ethanol or petrol? Were the injectors new? What sort of power was it making before this happened? The ignition timing in your map is pretty extreme for an evo - generally you are well down in the single digits by 20psi on petrol - was that a prove ignition table or something new? Or as mentioned earlier heavy detonation can cause it also. On older engines it can be carbon deposits etc but since yours is fresh you can rule that one out. Pre-ignition is most often caused with lean mixtures under high load, or when there is something "glowing" in the combustion chamber such as a wrong heat range spark plug, lack of coolant around the spark plug/chamber or something like a fire ring on the head gasket that is too small and hanging into the chamber. Pre-ignition is something causing the mixture to ignite before spark has occurred and can generate extreme heat since the combustion energy is not all going in to expansion. With detonation you will generally break things before you melt things, but in some cases if you have relatively strong internals (forged pistons etc) they will handle the mechanical impact of the detonation for long enough that it can generate enough heat in the combustion chamber to cause pre-ignition so the damage is done by the pre-ignition but the root cause is detonation. Melted plug electrode is generally pre-ignition.
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